Started curating vintage full-time this year and the number one question I get is: how do you know a piece is actually old and not just distressed fast-fashion trying to pass as vintage? Here's the checklist I run every single item through before it goes in a drop:

1. Check the tag construction, not just the logo. Woven tags sewn flat with a single stitch line usually predate the 2000s. Printed tags with rounded corners are almost always 2010s+.

2. Look at the stitch count on hems. Older garments (pre-90s) were often single-stitched on hems. Mass fast-fashion post-2010 is almost always double or triple stitched for durability, not aesthetics.

3. Fabric weight tells the era. Heavier cotton (10oz+) on tees and denim usually means pre-2000s manufacturing, when mills didn't optimize for shipping cost the way they do now.

4. Fading should be inconsistent. Real sun/wash fade hits shoulders, seams, and fold lines unevenly. Chemically distressed 'vintage-style' pieces fade uniformly — a dead giveaway.

5. Smell and feel the fibers. Synthetic-heavy blends (post-2000s fast fashion) feel plasticky even when soft. Old-school cotton/wool blends have a drier, more textured hand-feel.

None of this is about gatekeeping — it's about not overpaying for something dressed up as vintage. If you're building a resale or personal collection, run every piece through this before you buy. Saved me from bad purchases more times than I can count.