Most plus-size sewists have been here: you follow the size chart, cut the fabric, sew the bodice — and it pulls across the chest, gaps at the armhole, or rides up in front.

The problem usually isn't the size. It's that the pattern's bust dart doesn't account for your full bust depth.

Here are 3 things I check before I ever touch scissors:

1. Compare Your High Bust to Full Bust

Measure your high bust (just under the arms, above the bust) and your full bust (at the fullest point). If the difference is more than 2", the pattern likely needs an FBA — even if your full bust matches the size chart.

Why? Commercial patterns draft for a B/C cup across all sizes. A 2"+ difference means significantly more bust projection than the pattern accounts for.

2. Check the Flat Pattern's Dart Angle

Lay the pattern piece flat and look at the bust dart. If the dart point sits more than 1" away from your actual apex (nipple point), the dart is doing its work in the wrong place. This causes pulling at the side seam and excess fabric below the bust.

3. Do the "Tissue Fit" Test

Pin the pattern tissue together at the seams and hold it up to your body. If the side seam swings forward or the hemline is shorter in front than in back by more than ½", an FBA will fix both issues simultaneously.

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These three checks take 5 minutes and save hours of frustration. The adjustment itself is straightforward once you understand the geometry — it's about adding width and length at the bust point without changing the rest of the pattern.

I teach the complete FBA method — dart-based, dartless, princess seam, structured outerwear — inside my course with real before-and-after case studies on commercial patterns.